Cavalli is the surprise hit at Pitti Uomo

A leopard can not change his spots. I should not do it either. It is precisely the conclusion of the male Paul Surridge men's showposing ES19 Roberto Cavalli, who, in addition to showing lynxes, tigers and zebras, has kept thriving impressions Animalia brand, revirtiéndolos in jackets and coats and smoothing shirts and outerwear with tonal repetitions off.

This was the only Paul Surridge men’s show, and the backdrop of the 14th century Certosa di Firenze monastery on top of a hill overlooking Florence, Cavalli’s hometown, gave him a boost of confidence. Wearing a brand-name fashion realm from obscurity to relevance in a few seasons is not easy, and Surridge has shown that Cavalli can be usable and desirable.

Surridge, who was named creative director in May 2017, has a mission to bring a new urban and dynamic energy to the home, change the perception once grating to something, well, a little chicer. When we think of Cavalli, we do not necessarily think of craftsmanship or refinement, think of the ultra glamorous, sexy and tanned people on yachts with tight clothes.


As for ES19, there was a lot of basic classic menswear: chinos, shorts, parkas, trench coats and suits, all reworked in a modern Cavalli language. There were the familiar flavors of brilliant testosterone: “I grew up in the ’90s, so it’s a bit stuffy,” Surridge said backstage, referring to the boy’s original review that was a publishing phenomenon in 90. “It was a refill and restart, high octane, glamorous and high energy. “

A big blow was Apple’s CEO, Tim Cook, ranked first, who is not usually a face seen during fashion week, and certainly not in a Cavalli show. Maybe the connection is Angela Ahrends, vice president of Apple Retail, and former boss of Surridge in Burberry.

Gian Giacomo Ferraris, CEO of Grupo Roberto Cavalli, has publicly praised Surridge for his role in reviving the company’s profitability: “For me, confirms that our work plan is good and we have the right creative direction and equipment the direction. We are particularly excited about the results of the recent sales campaign that followed the FW18 fashion show. We’re back to some of the best concepts, and department stores that repurchased Roberto Cavalli after just two shows from Paul Surridge” said Ferraris.

As we said, a leopard does not need to change spots.